Today in the hospital, we got to see the X-Ray equipment- which was really cool. It was actually really nice compared to most of the hospital. The machine was in great order, and the room was very swanky. The technician taught us all about how it all worked, and showed us how to develop the films. Pretty cool! Though Anne Marie wasn't very impressed, as her dad is an orthopedic surgeon and she's pretty much grown up with them.
We then were introduced to Ali, a nice new volunteer from New Orleans and a nursing student. As we were giving her the whorl-wind tour of the hospital, we saw a woman being carted from Maternity to surgery for a C-section (a pretty common occurrence). Excitedly, we encouraged Ali to come in and watch, and through her reaction were reminded of the fact that though we've really gotten used to them, surgeries at the hospital are totally crazy.
Feeling a bit bad that we'd totally overwhelmed Ali, we came home for lunch and met Amy, yet another new volunteer! She's a respiratory therapist from California, which is very exciting because it means that the hospital is finally getting a qualified volunteer instead of just students! There was a bit of a mix up about whether or not she was here to teach English at a nearby village, but once all was cleared up she moved in and started getting excited for the hospital (where she's totally helped to save a few newborn lives with her mad resuscitation skillz).
We all went out to dinner that night and got to know one another at the wonderful Sol Cafe- one of our two delicious salvations from boring Ugandan food. Jinja tomorrow!
Tuesday, July 19, 2011
Thursday, July 7, 2011
7/7/11
Connor just observed that it's seven-seven-eleven. We don't know what that means, but it sure sounds exciting.
Anyway, just so no one actually worries, I'm totally fine. I just had this weird dizziness yesterday and a really glamorous UTI which antibiotics have happily helped with greatly.
I want to second what Connor said about the masala chips, sipi falls, and Ugandan men. They are, respectively: delicious, beautiful, and extremely forward. I also want to emphasize the extreme joy that we both felt when Ben K texted us to let us know about the birth of Brugh, which was the real highlight of our weekend. Ben also deserves a shout-out for most encouraging big-brotherly phone call ever. Many of our medical experiences here have been overwhelming to me- the difficulties are so much more systemic than just resource management. For example, today in the male ward, Connor and I were making rounds with the head nurse and visited an elderly man who has a seriously obstructed bowel, a life-threatening condition should it rupture and spill it's bacteria-laden contents into his abdomen. When the surgeon stopped by to obtain consent to operate on him, the patient was extremely confused and unable to speak clearly, but his many sons were there adamantly refusing consent for the surgery. When we were making rounds, the patient could speak, was lucid, and clearly wanted the surgery, but there were no doctors of any kind around, and the sons still didn't want their father to have the surgery. The head nurse talked at length with the family, who seemed pretty well-off and relatively urbane for Iganga, but who then launched into a full-on tirade about their father being bewitched, being poisoned (possibly by the hospital?) and that what he needed was a witch doctor. Their father, it seemed to me, was probably just having difficulty with his lucidity as a result of his medical condition, a common, reversible, and in fact already reversing condition. Instead of listening to the nurse's explanation of this, they loaded him onto a gurney and took him out of the hospital, probably sensing that Connor and I were planning to run down to the operating theater and grab a surgeon to obtain consent and book the surgery, which we damned well were about to do, in accordance with the ethical principle of patient autonomy. They took him away.
This all goes to say that the problems with healthcare here, as in the united states, are systemic and confusing. They are cultural, financial, organizational...and they make the scale of suffering almost unbearable to imagine. When Connor and I went out into the village Tuesday, we drove out of Iganga, across an hour of countryside, then through a very small town called Namatumba, where we turned off onto a little dirt road that journeyed on further through miles of cornfields, and scattered through these cornfields was hut after hut occupied by people living as subsistence farmers in a country with no infrastructure to help them have safe, happy births, lives or deaths. I like Uganda a great deal, and I'm not saying any of this to imply that people here and elsewhere aren't trying to improve these problems- it's actually the opposite. It's disheartening that even with so much goodwill and so much money being poured into NGOs and government efforts here, we still arrived Tuesday afternoon, three med students expecting to see twenty or so kids with some gnarly wounds, and instead we sat in those rooms Connor talked about and each saw student after student, about seventy or eighty each. The teachers there made lunch for us but didn't bring it out because we were working so hard, and they wanted so much for the kids to get some kind of medical attention. And so did we. But we're not doctors yet, and we were in a school with dirt floors in the middle of miles of fields full of corn, sugar cane, bananas, coffee, tea, where people live without much that we take for granted every minute of every day.
I don't really remember what Ben said to me in response to some of my more hopeless thoughts about all of this, but it really did encourage me to learn as much as I can from this journey.
Also, we could really use some assistance with web-based research about basic preventative/maintenance healthcare recommendations for kids. Are there any good protocols for schools in underserved parts of the world that address how to instate cost-effective programs to promote general health? We're especially interested in nutrition, tooth hygiene, vision correction, de-worming, wound care, hand-washing...really basic things like this. If you are looking for a time-killer at work, give this a quick google or pub med or whatever else for us. Thanks so much! Please email one of us with whatever you find.
Anyway, just so no one actually worries, I'm totally fine. I just had this weird dizziness yesterday and a really glamorous UTI which antibiotics have happily helped with greatly.
I want to second what Connor said about the masala chips, sipi falls, and Ugandan men. They are, respectively: delicious, beautiful, and extremely forward. I also want to emphasize the extreme joy that we both felt when Ben K texted us to let us know about the birth of Brugh, which was the real highlight of our weekend. Ben also deserves a shout-out for most encouraging big-brotherly phone call ever. Many of our medical experiences here have been overwhelming to me- the difficulties are so much more systemic than just resource management. For example, today in the male ward, Connor and I were making rounds with the head nurse and visited an elderly man who has a seriously obstructed bowel, a life-threatening condition should it rupture and spill it's bacteria-laden contents into his abdomen. When the surgeon stopped by to obtain consent to operate on him, the patient was extremely confused and unable to speak clearly, but his many sons were there adamantly refusing consent for the surgery. When we were making rounds, the patient could speak, was lucid, and clearly wanted the surgery, but there were no doctors of any kind around, and the sons still didn't want their father to have the surgery. The head nurse talked at length with the family, who seemed pretty well-off and relatively urbane for Iganga, but who then launched into a full-on tirade about their father being bewitched, being poisoned (possibly by the hospital?) and that what he needed was a witch doctor. Their father, it seemed to me, was probably just having difficulty with his lucidity as a result of his medical condition, a common, reversible, and in fact already reversing condition. Instead of listening to the nurse's explanation of this, they loaded him onto a gurney and took him out of the hospital, probably sensing that Connor and I were planning to run down to the operating theater and grab a surgeon to obtain consent and book the surgery, which we damned well were about to do, in accordance with the ethical principle of patient autonomy. They took him away.
This all goes to say that the problems with healthcare here, as in the united states, are systemic and confusing. They are cultural, financial, organizational...and they make the scale of suffering almost unbearable to imagine. When Connor and I went out into the village Tuesday, we drove out of Iganga, across an hour of countryside, then through a very small town called Namatumba, where we turned off onto a little dirt road that journeyed on further through miles of cornfields, and scattered through these cornfields was hut after hut occupied by people living as subsistence farmers in a country with no infrastructure to help them have safe, happy births, lives or deaths. I like Uganda a great deal, and I'm not saying any of this to imply that people here and elsewhere aren't trying to improve these problems- it's actually the opposite. It's disheartening that even with so much goodwill and so much money being poured into NGOs and government efforts here, we still arrived Tuesday afternoon, three med students expecting to see twenty or so kids with some gnarly wounds, and instead we sat in those rooms Connor talked about and each saw student after student, about seventy or eighty each. The teachers there made lunch for us but didn't bring it out because we were working so hard, and they wanted so much for the kids to get some kind of medical attention. And so did we. But we're not doctors yet, and we were in a school with dirt floors in the middle of miles of fields full of corn, sugar cane, bananas, coffee, tea, where people live without much that we take for granted every minute of every day.
I don't really remember what Ben said to me in response to some of my more hopeless thoughts about all of this, but it really did encourage me to learn as much as I can from this journey.
Also, we could really use some assistance with web-based research about basic preventative/maintenance healthcare recommendations for kids. Are there any good protocols for schools in underserved parts of the world that address how to instate cost-effective programs to promote general health? We're especially interested in nutrition, tooth hygiene, vision correction, de-worming, wound care, hand-washing...really basic things like this. If you are looking for a time-killer at work, give this a quick google or pub med or whatever else for us. Thanks so much! Please email one of us with whatever you find.
Wednesday, July 6, 2011
7/6/11
Which brings us to today!
Not much happened today. We fully intended on going to the hospital, but Anne Marie fell ill, and I wanted to stay home with her to help out as long as I thought she might need something. We did laundry, I got a whole slew of prescription-grade medicines at the local pharmacy for a smile, and we're hopeful she'll live. It doesn't seem like Malaria, for those that are worried about that (though even if it somehow were, Malaria is very readily diagnosed and easily treated over here, so no big deal).
Shout out to Ben and Julie Kessler, incidentally, for having a stout young baby boy on July 1st! Anderson Brugh. May he be as awesome as his name is.
Not much happened today. We fully intended on going to the hospital, but Anne Marie fell ill, and I wanted to stay home with her to help out as long as I thought she might need something. We did laundry, I got a whole slew of prescription-grade medicines at the local pharmacy for a smile, and we're hopeful she'll live. It doesn't seem like Malaria, for those that are worried about that (though even if it somehow were, Malaria is very readily diagnosed and easily treated over here, so no big deal).
Shout out to Ben and Julie Kessler, incidentally, for having a stout young baby boy on July 1st! Anderson Brugh. May he be as awesome as his name is.
7/5/11
Back in Iganga. We had arranged last week to spend today in a little village about an hour outside of town at a small orphanage / boarding school that was set up by another ELI volunteer. We grabbed some chippotti (our new favorite!) and set out.
The village was pretty crazy. At perhaps 9:30 we were seated in two small rooms in this tiny little school/orphanage, with 200 kids waiting in lines outside to be examined. There were no doctors there, or nurses... only Anne Marie, Jenny and me. None of us had more than 1 year of med school under our belts. And yet, here we were, looking one after one at kids (orphans, no less) that have almost certainly literally never been examined by anyone with any medical training EVER. Anne Marie and Jenny sat in one room, looking at the girls. I sat in another room, looking at the boys. And they filed in, one after another, unendingly, with all kinds of big, crazy open wounds; almost all with malnutrition and distended abdomens, stomach and head pains; almost all with GI worms; in they came with ringworm, eye problems, tooth problems, infected wounds and almost all other kinds of infection. In short, it was unbelievable. I spent the first two hours there pretty unhappy - it was a pain to consult Anne Marie and Jenny in the other room, our supplies were split, and I seriously did not know what I was doing for most of it. But as I fell into it, I realized that what little we could do was better than nothing. We wrote down what we thought all the kids had, and most of it - the infections, the worms, the fungus - will be treated later by people with money that can get the appropriate tablets. But we cleaned dozens of wounds, many obviously infected, and frankly, by the end I was focused more on what we could do than what we couldn't. It was good to actually be helping... we were so much less helpful than if we were qualified doctors with all the drugs we needed, but so much more helpful than no-one, which is who would have seen them if we hadn't come out.
By the time it was all over 8 absolutely unbroken hours later, we were hungry and tired, but happy to have helped. We went to our favorite restaurant in Iganga and got beers and Indian food and even some little cheeseburger sliders, and by the time we got home we were very happy with a hard day's work.
The restaurant reminds me of one last small digression I'd like to make about the food here - it's really, really bland. Almost no flavor. I say this not because I'm picky or unadventurous about my cuisine - in fact, I feel the opposite. My tastes are far too adventurous for Uganda. So when we discovered some time last week that you could get Masala Chips at a restaurant here, we were thrilled. Delicious english potato wedges, smothered in spicy indian masala sauce??? Awesome! Then, once we'd gotten into the tasty food scene in Iganga, we heard about the Sol Cafe, where we went in the evening of this blog post. It offers burgers. They're little, kind of white castle-y, but By God, they're burgers! It's very exciting. Though I realize it's a pretty strange digression from our epic day of healing sick orphans. I guess I'm hungry.
The village was pretty crazy. At perhaps 9:30 we were seated in two small rooms in this tiny little school/orphanage, with 200 kids waiting in lines outside to be examined. There were no doctors there, or nurses... only Anne Marie, Jenny and me. None of us had more than 1 year of med school under our belts. And yet, here we were, looking one after one at kids (orphans, no less) that have almost certainly literally never been examined by anyone with any medical training EVER. Anne Marie and Jenny sat in one room, looking at the girls. I sat in another room, looking at the boys. And they filed in, one after another, unendingly, with all kinds of big, crazy open wounds; almost all with malnutrition and distended abdomens, stomach and head pains; almost all with GI worms; in they came with ringworm, eye problems, tooth problems, infected wounds and almost all other kinds of infection. In short, it was unbelievable. I spent the first two hours there pretty unhappy - it was a pain to consult Anne Marie and Jenny in the other room, our supplies were split, and I seriously did not know what I was doing for most of it. But as I fell into it, I realized that what little we could do was better than nothing. We wrote down what we thought all the kids had, and most of it - the infections, the worms, the fungus - will be treated later by people with money that can get the appropriate tablets. But we cleaned dozens of wounds, many obviously infected, and frankly, by the end I was focused more on what we could do than what we couldn't. It was good to actually be helping... we were so much less helpful than if we were qualified doctors with all the drugs we needed, but so much more helpful than no-one, which is who would have seen them if we hadn't come out.
By the time it was all over 8 absolutely unbroken hours later, we were hungry and tired, but happy to have helped. We went to our favorite restaurant in Iganga and got beers and Indian food and even some little cheeseburger sliders, and by the time we got home we were very happy with a hard day's work.
The restaurant reminds me of one last small digression I'd like to make about the food here - it's really, really bland. Almost no flavor. I say this not because I'm picky or unadventurous about my cuisine - in fact, I feel the opposite. My tastes are far too adventurous for Uganda. So when we discovered some time last week that you could get Masala Chips at a restaurant here, we were thrilled. Delicious english potato wedges, smothered in spicy indian masala sauce??? Awesome! Then, once we'd gotten into the tasty food scene in Iganga, we heard about the Sol Cafe, where we went in the evening of this blog post. It offers burgers. They're little, kind of white castle-y, but By God, they're burgers! It's very exciting. Though I realize it's a pretty strange digression from our epic day of healing sick orphans. I guess I'm hungry.
7/2/11 - 7/4/11
Saturday at last! We stopped by the hospital to give one the patient's some medicines he needed and were off to Sipi Falls - super beautiful and awesome Sipi Falls. Oh, how we love Sipi Falls.
But first things first, we went with Jenny (another med student who lives with us) and this other kid named Johann from Switzerland, who's also volunteering with ELI but in a different house. Jenny and Johann were hilarious all weekend. They're both at least slightly crazy - Jenny in a super med-studenty way, and Johann in a super crazy European way. Inevitably, the whole weekend was a bizarre and amusing romantic tension... ah, l'amour.
We took a matatu to Mbale (perhaps a 2.5 hour ride) and then another to Sipi Falls, another hour in a matatu and perhaps half an hour in a boda boda. It was the longest boda ride we've yet taken, and it was fairly terrifying... no helmet, 15 year old driver going breakneck speeds on a crappy little motorcycle with broken mirrors. And yet, we arrived safely, and found ourselves at the Crow's Nest.
The Crow's Nest was absolutely beautiful. For only $13 per night (for both of us), Anne Marie and I got a private little cabin on a hillside that overlooked the three GORGEOUS waterfalls that comprise Sipi Falls. I've never in my life seen such awesome waterfalls, and the rest of the scenery was equally amazing.
Being a tourist destination, it was pretty full of white people - sort of weird after being used to never seeing other mzungus - but we had a great time. Saturday night we stayed up late drinking at the bar and playing card games. Sunday was the big nature hike - for pretty cheap we all got a guided tour around all three waterfalls (one 100m, one 67m, one 78m). The hike lasted about six hours, and was pretty tiring... so when we came back, we were ready to eat and drink and nap, all in the fabulously cool temperature that high elevations in mountainous Uganda provided for us. It was magnificent.
Sunday night, we walked next door to eat an incredible, four course meal at a neighboring place for 18,000 shillings each - about 7 bucks. I'm sorry if I keep talking about how cheap everything is here, but it's just so crazy to me. We slept like kings on our huge double mattress, and spent all morning on Monday, July 4th reading, enjoying the views, eating big meals, doing crosswords, and otherwise relaxing hard.
We loved Sipi Falls.
But first things first, we went with Jenny (another med student who lives with us) and this other kid named Johann from Switzerland, who's also volunteering with ELI but in a different house. Jenny and Johann were hilarious all weekend. They're both at least slightly crazy - Jenny in a super med-studenty way, and Johann in a super crazy European way. Inevitably, the whole weekend was a bizarre and amusing romantic tension... ah, l'amour.
We took a matatu to Mbale (perhaps a 2.5 hour ride) and then another to Sipi Falls, another hour in a matatu and perhaps half an hour in a boda boda. It was the longest boda ride we've yet taken, and it was fairly terrifying... no helmet, 15 year old driver going breakneck speeds on a crappy little motorcycle with broken mirrors. And yet, we arrived safely, and found ourselves at the Crow's Nest.
The Crow's Nest was absolutely beautiful. For only $13 per night (for both of us), Anne Marie and I got a private little cabin on a hillside that overlooked the three GORGEOUS waterfalls that comprise Sipi Falls. I've never in my life seen such awesome waterfalls, and the rest of the scenery was equally amazing.
Being a tourist destination, it was pretty full of white people - sort of weird after being used to never seeing other mzungus - but we had a great time. Saturday night we stayed up late drinking at the bar and playing card games. Sunday was the big nature hike - for pretty cheap we all got a guided tour around all three waterfalls (one 100m, one 67m, one 78m). The hike lasted about six hours, and was pretty tiring... so when we came back, we were ready to eat and drink and nap, all in the fabulously cool temperature that high elevations in mountainous Uganda provided for us. It was magnificent.
Sunday night, we walked next door to eat an incredible, four course meal at a neighboring place for 18,000 shillings each - about 7 bucks. I'm sorry if I keep talking about how cheap everything is here, but it's just so crazy to me. We slept like kings on our huge double mattress, and spent all morning on Monday, July 4th reading, enjoying the views, eating big meals, doing crosswords, and otherwise relaxing hard.
We loved Sipi Falls.
6/29/11 - 7/1/11
Greetings, avid fans and loyal bloggees!
Anne Marie is feeling ill today (the real today, Wed 7/6) so here I sit at the internet cafe all on my lonesome, with only some very slow internet to keep me occupied. As such, dear readers, I might get bored and not type in quite as much detail as I've done in the past. I know that you all normally cherish my long-windedness, so I apologize in advance if I'm more succinct. Indeed, I'll begin by compressing last Wednesday through Friday all into one concise and easy-to-read bundle.
After such an exciting day in maternity on Tuesday, we decided to spend our time the rest of the week exploring what else the hospital had to offer. We saw many more circumcisions in the minor operating theater, spent lots of time in the major operating theater watching C-sections and a few other surgeries, spent a bit more time in maternity and mapped out a plan for what we were going to do with our time at the hospital, specifically, for the remainder of our time here. Unfortunately, there isn't much to say about these days. Ugandans didn't seem to be very sick for most of them, and mom's weren't pushing out babies as we've been used to seeing. It was really nice getting some more time to get to know the folks at the hospital though, so we were very happy overall!
On the getting-to-know-Ugandans-better note: Ugandan men are super funny. It's a culture in which homosexuality is, as I've mentioned, so illegal as to have just avoided being punishable by an automatic death penalty. It's a culture where I just saw a Ugandan paper in which the president supports his policy of throwing the gays in jail because God created Adam and Eve, not Adam and Adam. Uganda is even a place where PDA between men and women is considered very inappropriate, including holding hands. But men here hold hands all the time (which takes a bit of getting used to), but more importantly the relatively small number of Ugandans working at the hospital to whom I've given our cell phone number are CONSTANTLY calling and texting me. Now I'm certainly not saying they're all secretly gay for me (flattering as it would be) but from my cultural perspective, it is pretty funny watching all of these men calling me all the time, texting me in the middle of the night, and trying to hold my hand. If Ugandans weren't outrageously homophobic, I'd think they were pretty flamboyant!
I'm finding that I really like a lot about Uganda, actually. As alluded to, the people are extremely friendly. The cell phone service is great - it's cheap (international calls are well under a dime per minute), and offers cool services like money transfer between phones (for cash withdrawal, even) and texts when the number you've tried calling that was busy becomes available. The weather is a bit hot during the day, but is lovely at night. It's super easy to get around, and the transportation is really cheap (if also terrifying and uncomfortable). I'm increasingly thinking I'd like to come back here, for at least a little while, once I'm actually a doctor and could actually help people.
Anne Marie is feeling ill today (the real today, Wed 7/6) so here I sit at the internet cafe all on my lonesome, with only some very slow internet to keep me occupied. As such, dear readers, I might get bored and not type in quite as much detail as I've done in the past. I know that you all normally cherish my long-windedness, so I apologize in advance if I'm more succinct. Indeed, I'll begin by compressing last Wednesday through Friday all into one concise and easy-to-read bundle.
After such an exciting day in maternity on Tuesday, we decided to spend our time the rest of the week exploring what else the hospital had to offer. We saw many more circumcisions in the minor operating theater, spent lots of time in the major operating theater watching C-sections and a few other surgeries, spent a bit more time in maternity and mapped out a plan for what we were going to do with our time at the hospital, specifically, for the remainder of our time here. Unfortunately, there isn't much to say about these days. Ugandans didn't seem to be very sick for most of them, and mom's weren't pushing out babies as we've been used to seeing. It was really nice getting some more time to get to know the folks at the hospital though, so we were very happy overall!
On the getting-to-know-Ugandans-better note: Ugandan men are super funny. It's a culture in which homosexuality is, as I've mentioned, so illegal as to have just avoided being punishable by an automatic death penalty. It's a culture where I just saw a Ugandan paper in which the president supports his policy of throwing the gays in jail because God created Adam and Eve, not Adam and Adam. Uganda is even a place where PDA between men and women is considered very inappropriate, including holding hands. But men here hold hands all the time (which takes a bit of getting used to), but more importantly the relatively small number of Ugandans working at the hospital to whom I've given our cell phone number are CONSTANTLY calling and texting me. Now I'm certainly not saying they're all secretly gay for me (flattering as it would be) but from my cultural perspective, it is pretty funny watching all of these men calling me all the time, texting me in the middle of the night, and trying to hold my hand. If Ugandans weren't outrageously homophobic, I'd think they were pretty flamboyant!
I'm finding that I really like a lot about Uganda, actually. As alluded to, the people are extremely friendly. The cell phone service is great - it's cheap (international calls are well under a dime per minute), and offers cool services like money transfer between phones (for cash withdrawal, even) and texts when the number you've tried calling that was busy becomes available. The weather is a bit hot during the day, but is lovely at night. It's super easy to get around, and the transportation is really cheap (if also terrifying and uncomfortable). I'm increasingly thinking I'd like to come back here, for at least a little while, once I'm actually a doctor and could actually help people.
Wednesday, June 29, 2011
6/28/11
Connor and I have been trying a new approach to our hospital schedule- today we went in for the afternoon and evening, because all of the students peace out at about five and then we have more opportunities to ask questions of the nurses. We had a really nice morning! I had been tipped off about some decent instant coffee (star coffee) which I bought yesterday, and so this morning I enjoyed two cups of coffee- my first since Monmouth in London. It felt sooooo good. Connor and I spent the morning doing crosswords on the iPad and went in to the hospital after lunch. We watched two c-sections in the afternoon. The first was for a ruptured uterus, which I had never seen before. The baby was stillborn and the mother's uterus was torn in two directions and looked stiff and dark. It was shaped at that point kind of like a baseball mitt, but the surgeon closed the uterus again despite the high likelihood of future dangerous pregnancies. He hadn't discussed the possibility of a damaged uterus with the mother beforehand, so he felt that he couldn't perform a hysterectomy. Safe spacing is key in situations like this,, as is close and conscientious monitoring throughout pregnancy. The chance that the mother will take these precautions with her next pregnancy is slim, so I can't help but be concerned for her. The second c-section went very well, happily.
After our afternoon tea, we returned to the hospital to help out with labor and delivery. They had delivered sixteen babies between nine and five, and we saw many more mothers there laboring. One mother was laboring in the hallway and had her baby there, unattended. Connor ended up helping nurse Zaki with the mother while I tended to the baby. There was so much going on that it was hard to tear ourselves away for dinner, which is served between nine and ten in the evening.
After our afternoon tea, we returned to the hospital to help out with labor and delivery. They had delivered sixteen babies between nine and five, and we saw many more mothers there laboring. One mother was laboring in the hallway and had her baby there, unattended. Connor ended up helping nurse Zaki with the mother while I tended to the baby. There was so much going on that it was hard to tear ourselves away for dinner, which is served between nine and ten in the evening.
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